Tigers 5 - Humans 1
Ranthambore, India, November 2013
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve is the most famous place in India to see a wild tiger. The chances of seeing one are supposedly 50/50 but after four safaris and still not a single stripe in sight it felt more like 1 in 50. When the moment came on our last day it was magical and I feel tremendously lucky and fortunate although how I would have felt if I had not seen one after six safaris I hate to imagine.
all the safari vehicles had the word zone displayed on the back with a slot next to it so that the number could be changed.
The excitement I felt as we arrived in Ranthambhore, after a 2 1/2 hour drive from Jaipur airport, soon turned to concern. Parked along the sides of the road were khaki-green 16 and 20 seater Canter trucks interspersed with six seater Gypsy jeeps. I counted 50 trucks by the time we reached our hotel. It felt as if we had arrived in a town besieged by an invisible army.
My concerns were put on hold as we pulled up outside the Oberoi Vanyavilas hotel. The hotel was an oasis of calm after the chaos of driving on Indian roads. Their 25 luxury tents are set amongst beautiful gardens and lakes that border the tiger reserve. It is a small intimate hotel where we were welcomed personally by Ratna, the hotel's manageress before being escorted to our tent. Our first safari wasn't until the following day so we had time to enjoy the views from the observation tower and relax by the pool. Then to get us in the mood for our safari we went along to the nightly pre-dinner wildlife presentation given by the hotel's naturalist, Arjun, where we learnt about Ranthambhore Park, its tigers and the other wildlife we would see the following day.
Ranthambhore was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1955 and in 1973 became one of nine Project Tiger reserves and was made a National Park in 1980. Its 1,350 sq km is split into eight zones and depending on who you speak to there are somewhere between 45 - 52 tigers. Tigers are very solitary animals and you will only ever see more than one if it is a mother and her cubs, as she keeps them with her until they are 2 1/2 years old. The cubs then either have to fight their mother for her territory or leave and find their own.
The park is open October to June and each day there are two safaris - one at 7 am-10.30 am and the other at 2pm-5.30pm. We were told to meet in the hotel lobby at 6.45 am for a cup of tea or coffee and homemade biscuits - breakfast would be served when everyone got back. The anticipation mounted as the clock ticked towards 7am and we anxiously waited and watched as the other guests were escorted away, couple by couple, by a member of staff with a walkie-talkie.
The safaris are organised by the Department of Forestry and the Government of Rajasthan and are run on a lottery basis. The guides only discover the names of their passengers, which hotels they are staying in and more importantly what zone they will be working in when they collect their papers from the booking office prior to each safari.
At last it was our turn and when we got to the entrance of the hotel our jeep already had two couples in it. As the seating was three and three we were split up. The hotel offered us blankets and paper masks for the dusty roads and water was put in a cooler in the back should we need it. In November it was chilly first thing in the morning and after the sun sets in the evening but it is really the wind when you are driving at speed, to and from the park, when you are grateful for the blanket. Once we were all settled we were introduced to our guide and driver and told that we would be going to Zone 6. We soon noticed that all the safari vehicles had the word 'zone' displayed on the back with a slot next to it so that the number could be changed.
The entrance lay on the far side of the town which was in the midst of rush hour. We clung on tight as our jeep weaved in and out narrowly avoiding camels pulling heavy carts, wild boars scavenging in rubbish and skinny dogs chasing handmade tractors, without proper engines, that were decorated in flowers and blaring out music from tied down speakers. We flew past stalls selling fruit and veg and locals walking, cycling or squashed inside trucks and small mini buses or perched precariously on overflowing scooters. The noise was incredible and the relentless blaring of horns ensured that we were definitely awake.
The entrance into the park wasn't what I was expecting and was a bit of an anticlimax. While our guide handed in our signed disclaimer forms to a man sitting at a desk in the doorway of a small building, our jeep was surrounded by a handful of locals trying to sell us Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve baseball caps, waistcoats and fleeces.
We soon set off down a dusty, stony trail and after a short while drove through an arched entranceway. We were now officially in the tiger reserve. For the next 3 hours we bounced our way up and down hills, through streams and in and out of the forest. It felt as if we were on a roller coaster ride and we had to cling on tight to the roll bars to avoid being bounced out and with each lurch my stomach muscles clenched tighter.
We spotted lots of what our guide referred to as 'tiger food' - Samba deer and antelope - along with peacocks, monkeys, colourful kingfishers and parakeets. It didn't take long to realise that we weren't the only people in Zone 6 and my concerns at seeing all those empty jeeps and Canter trucks the day before came flooding back.
The park may be large but the jeeps and trucks have to keep to the single-lane trails that loop through the zones like a race track. Occasionally the trails split and drivers can avoid a confrontation with a convoy coming towards them by veering off at the last minute. Instead of looking for tigers it seemed that the main priority was to lose any tail we may have picked up and avoid becoming a Canter sandwich.
Every time we slowly squeezed passed an on-coming vehicle the passengers would suspiciously stare at us as if we were the enemy or competition. It was at such moments that I couldn't help but notice what my fellow tiger seekers were wearing. You could spot the Europeans who had been on an African safari a mile away as they were wearing muted colours. However, we were in the minority with vibrant saris and headscarves, Superman-logo sweatshirts and fleeces, jackets and beanie hats in the brightest of colours. Between that and the noise of the revving engines as the jeeps and trucks negotiated their way over stones, rocks and up and down steep ravines, it was no wonder we hadn't spotted a tiger.
I also noticed that as the drivers passed each other they would stop and have a quick chat. Not speaking Hindi I had no idea what was being said but could easily understand that a shake of the head meant they hadn't seen a tiger either. The drivers and guides were surprisingly un-armed and didn't even have walkie-talkies. We had also been told by Arjun that the tigers weren't micro-chipped and it suddenly dawned on me that they had absolutely no idea where the tigers were.
It turned out that there were only two ways of tracking a tiger - to look for fresh paw prints on the sandy paths, of which we saw a few and to listen for the warning calls of other birds and animals. We later learnt that the trails only take up 5% of each zone so there was more than enough places for the tigers to hang out until we had left. I was beginning to think we weren't looking for a tiger but a needle in a haystack.
However, the most upsetting part of the safari was when all the jeeps and Canters in Zone 6 congregated for a toilet break. In the makeshift car park I counted 10 Canter trucks and the same amount of jeeps. To say I was shocked by the number of people was an understatement. As the men disappeared behind trees, their families took photos of each other, stretched their legs and ate snacks, carelessly dropping their litter. It was quite surreal and I felt we were in the middle of a tacky theme park rather than a tiger sanctuary.
As we headed back to the hotel, I prayed that this was unusual and hoped that Zone 6 was popular with the large Canters as it was relatively flat. I was bizarrely relieved that we hadn't spotted a tiger as I couldn't imagine sharing the experience with 250 other people and could easily visualise the chaos and mayhem a tiger sighting would cause. Even being met by the hotel's resident elephants, Mala and Lakshmi, followed by an amazing alfresco breakfast didn't ease the concerns growing in my heart.
That afternoon we were taken to Zone 8 which took a while to get to as it is one of the newest zones added to the park, which has to keep growing to accommodate the increasing tiger numbers. This zone was in the mountains and a lot more scenic although the trails were even bumpier. On this trip we were lucky to spot a leopard enjoying the views high up on a rocky plateau. We spent 10 minutes or so with her taking photos along with another four jeeps and as word spread the vehicles doubled so we headed up onto a ridge and watched the sun set across the flat valley below. We were told it was very rare to see a leopard but instead of being thrilled we were disappointed because it wasn't a tiger.
The following morning I almost cried when we got into the jeep and our new guide announced we were going to Zone 6. Suffice to say we didn't see a tiger and the safari was an exact repetition of the day before. When we got back to the hotel we were so disappointed that we told Ratna if we got Zone 6 again we wouldn't go. I felt like a spoilt child throwing a temper tantrum.
That afternoon, after a few pleading phone calls by Ratna on our behalf, we were told we would be going to Zone 2. This was supposedly the most beautiful of all the zones. So we set off again with our spirits restored and the anticipation of spotting a tiger once again bringing a smile to our faces. This time instead of turning left out of our hotel we turned right. Five minutes later we arrived at the entrance of Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. Now this was more like the entrance I was expecting to see. At last it felt like we were going to be in the middle of all the action.
Monkeys followed us through the trees as our jeep headed through a narrow valley with steep mountains on either side. The road was very busy as it wasn't just safari vehicles using it. Small mini buses, private cars and locals on foot were heading to and from the temple located within Ranthambhore Fort. When we looked up we could see the enormous 10th century fortress walls sitting on top of the plateau 700 metres above us. This was where the Maharajahs from the kingdom of Rajasthan came to hunt. The ancient trees, rocky cliffs and dramatic fort created an eerie atmosphere as we drove further along the road.
We passed side roads leading to Zones 1, 4 and 5 and before long we arrived in front of the fort bustling with locals, visitors, safari jeeps and trucks. After a brief stop to handover the paperwork we headed into the park and soon came to the largest Banyan tree I have ever seen, which had completely overgrown the ruins of an ancient gateway. A few minutes later the road split with Zone 2 leading off to the left and Zone 3 to the right.
we headed into the park and soon came to the largest Banyan tree I have ever seen
Zone 2 was indeed a magical place. There are two man-made lakes in this zone where we spotted crocodiles, a mongoose and we even watched an eagle eating a water snake. On the opposite banks of the first lake were the remains of a hunting lodge with its domed roofs and arched windows reflected in the flat water. Our guide said that in the summer months they regularly see tigers sheltering there from the sun. As I was looking up at the majestic fort in the hazy distance I realised that I didn't care if I saw a tiger today as just being here was memorable enough.
It was becoming harder to meet the disappointed faces of the hotel staff when they discovered yet again that we had been unsuccessful. It was now 4 - 0 to the Tigers and we only had one day left. To say that the tension was mounting would be an understatement. It also didn't help overhearing that other guests had spotted a tiger, or even worse, watching them drink their celebratory champagne, courtesy of the hotel when you spot one.
It was impossible not to be anxious as we drank our tea and waited to be collected for our fifth safari. When we got to the jeep it was already full and for the first time we were riding with an Indian family. The family consisted of a husband and wife, their two adult children and about 30 minutes into the safari we realised there was also a six month old baby girl on board. We climbed in and took the spare seats in the back row next to the son who introduced himself as Drew.
We then waited nervously to hear what zone we would be going to, trying to prepare ourselves for the worst. Thankfully we were going to Zone 3. We were delighted to be heading into the main part of the park again and to also see a new zone. This was the first safari for the Indian family and they were shocked when we told them it was our fifth and we still hadn't seen a tiger. For some reason it sounded as if we were bragging but really we were just trying to prepare them for the worst. Everyone we met expected to see a tiger and by now we were getting used to the sad faces of the children and parents in the Canters and jeeps we passed and I am sure they saw the same disillusionment staring back.
Surprisingly, this guide seemed to be tackling the safari with a different attitude. Instead of stopping at every animal we saw we headed straight to the far reaches of the zone putting distance between us and our fellow tiger hunters. I felt sorry for our Indian family who weren't getting a chance to photograph the wildlife as we zoomed past but our guide promised we would stop for photos after we had seen a tiger. The only time he did stop was when we saw a hyena taking an early morning drink from the river. I liked this new approach and could feel my heart starting to beat faster as the jeep sped through fast-flowing rivers, along the side of high-sided cliffs where I could see the walls of the fortress above and eventually dived deep into the forest.
It had started to rain when we eventually stopped at a T-junction and were told to be quiet. We sat there miserably getting soaked for what felt like forever but was probably only 5 minutes. We watched as the driver and guide listened to the forest and stared up and down the trail heading off in three directions. Looking into the trees it was easy to see how a tiger could appear invisible as their stripes blend in perfectly with the thin dark-barked trees and the sandy soil.
The reason we were waiting at this junction was that tigers like walking on the trails as their paws have soft pads so it is easier as well as quieter than the forest floor. We also learnt that unlike other wild cats, tigers don't chase their prey as they aren't fast runners due to their weight and size so instead they patiently stalk, gently placing one paw in front of the other sneaking up very slowly. They will also lie in the tall grasses by the lakes and wait for a deer or antelope to walk past and then pounce.
Eventually our guide gave up and signalled to the driver to head off and I felt my heart sinking once again but just as we came over a slight bump there in front of us was a tiger. The Indian family erupted as if their favourite team had scored a goal. It was so contagious that we couldn't help but join in. We all hugged, hands were shaken and the jeep was literally bouncing with joy. Our guide had to sternly tell us all to be quiet as the tiger was slowly heading towards us. We were all standing up and as we fumbled with our cameras the Indian family started videoing with their smartphones. There was a sense of panic in the air as we tried to take as many photos as possible so that we had proof that at last we had seen a wild tiger.
The atmosphere was electric but the tiger seemed totally un-phased and continued to zig zag across the road, stopping and reversing up to a tree, lifting her tail and spraying her scent on the bark. It seemed we had the rain to thank as it had forced the tiger to come out and re-mark her territory. We all kept losing our balance as our driver slowly reversed back down the track keeping a respectful distance between us and the approaching tiger.
When we reached the T-junction the tiger took a short cut and went through the forest and came out on the trail we had previously driven down. A short while later we had reversed and were following her as she continued marking the trees. According to Drew's smartphone recording we were with her for a whole 8 minutes. In between photos we managed to study this beautiful animal in its natural habitat and I have to say it was well worth the wait. All my frustration, anger and anxiety was immediately forgotten. However, if I was to be honest what made it even more special was that we selfishly had her all to ourselves and it was wonderful that we didn't have to share this once in a lifetime moment with anyone else.
Eventually our tiger headed into the thick forest and with her amazing camouflage it didn't take long for her to vanish into thin air. Once we had accepted that she was gone the hugging and celebrating started again and despite the fact we were wet and cold our eyes and faces were glowing with happiness.
The party was interrupted when our guide spotted a jeep heading our way. Surprisingly he told us not to let on that we had seen a tiger. When they drew up beside us we kept our faces poker straight and confronted the dagger like stares from the other jeep. As the guides and drivers chatted to each other and exchanged the now very familiar shaking of heads I couldn't help but wonder if we had ever been lied to.
A short while later we came to Zone 3's designated toilet stop and got out to stretch our legs. There was more hugging and back slapping and cigarettes were handed out by the Indian family to celebrate the intimate moment we had all shared. We also had to speak to the father's friend in Mumbai who he had called to brag about seeing a tiger.
A Canter arrived and its passengers could tell that we were slightly hyper and demanded to know if we had seen a tiger. Some even got out of the truck and approached our jeep insisting on proof and wanting to see a photo. The anger and jealousy was quite scary and we were grateful when our guide decided it was time to make a quick getaway. We experienced more of this hostility each time we passed another vehicle on our way out of the park. It didn't help that the father kept holding out his smart phone to his fellow countrymen smugly showing them a paused video clip of 'our' tiger.
Back at the hotel everyone was over the moon and extremely relieved. As word spread our waiters and Arjun came over to shake our hands and congratulate us. Finally it was our turn to bask in the glory of our sighting and for our fellow guests to enviously watch us drink our celebratory glass of champagne as we looked back at our photos.
Arjun told us 'our' tiger was T22 and her name was Gayatri and that we were very lucky as she was shy and rarely sighted. Looking at our photos he said she was very thin and would probably have to make a kill in the next day or two. He also told us that she was about 8 years old and the mother of two male tigers Bhola and Ustad.
That afternoon we were told we were doing Zone 2 again. Although we would have loved to have seen a different zone we couldn't complain as this was our favourite and wasn't the dreaded Zone 6 and now that we had seen a tiger we could relax and enjoy the safari without any of the anxiety that accompanied our previous visits. It did serve us right and make us chuckle when we got back to the hotel and heard that the only sighting that afternoon had been in Zone 6!
The end score was Tigers 5 - Humans 1. How I would have felt having done six safaris and not seen a tiger I don't know. Would it have been worth going all that way for? Would the number of brightly coloured tourists and those large Canters have left me feeling angry and cheated? Thankfully I will never know.
One thing for sure is that if you absolutely want to see a wild tiger you have to make sure the odds are in your favour and do as many safaris as possible. I had read that it was a 50/50 chance that you would see a tiger, which was why instead of the normal two safaris that most visitors choose to do we had booked six. However by day four it felt more like a 1 in 50 chance of seeing one.
holding out his smart phone to his fellow countrymen smugly showing them a paused video clip of our tiger.
We were definitely in the minority and were one of the longest staying guests at the Oberoi. Staying four nights meant that we received special attention and were treated like VIP's. Not only did the Chef discuss with us and prepare our meals 'off-menu', but Arjun had to come up with an extra pre-dinner wildlife presentation as they normally only have three that they rotate.
If you don't have four days to dedicate to a tiger safari then the best time to visit is at the end of season in May and June when there is a lack of water and the forestry commission fills up man-made watering holes close to the trails. Also, as it's the dry season the trees are bare, making the tigers' camouflage less effective. However, the only problem with going at that time of year is that it's unbearably hot with temperatures reaching 52 degrees.
I still feel slightly angry about how many tourists were allowed in the park and particularly the size and number of vehicles we saw in Zone 6. The other zones although still busy weren't nearly as chaotic. Surprisingly, the park's website says there is a limited number of vehicles allowed in each day and states you have to book well in advance of your visit to guarantee a booking.
Perhaps the reason it is so busy is the price of the entrance fee - 1,500 rupees for a seat in a Canter and 3,250 for a jeep, which is roughly £15 and £32 and much less if you are Indian. I appreciate that increasing the price may put the experience out of the range of many Nationals but perhaps then they would realise that seeing a wild tiger is an honour and treat the experience with more respect and not like a theme park.
Our Ranthambhore visit was extremely educational although I learnt more about the uglier side of human nature, my own included, than I had bargained for. I'm glad that the odds of a sighting are in the tiger's favour and hope that their numbers continue to grow. Perhaps one day there will be more Project Tiger reserves and maybe then Ranthambhore won't feel as if it's under attack.