Obrigado Lisbon
Portugal, March 2009
Lisbon is a city of layers to be enjoyed from many different angles and vantage points. Trams, funiculars and even an iron elevator will help you reach panoramic terraces from where you can witness the city's transformation back to her original grandeur.
one of the two lifts will transport you 45 metres above the city’s rooftops
Lisbon is famous for its sea faring explorers and so it’s perhaps not surprising that one of the best city views is down at the water’s edge in front of Comercio Square.  With your back to the River Tagus, the magnificent square is surrounded on three sides with yellow palatial buildings set above arched walkways decorated with elaborate lanterns.  In the centre is a statue of King Jose I on horseback and directly behind him is a dramatic arch adorned with statues leading up the elegant Rua Augusta.
If you follow the polished mosaic cobbles and can resist stopping for a bica in Rossio Square you will arrive at an even more impressive street.  Avenida da Liberdade has been compared to the Champs Elysées with its hotels and designer shops and with three lanes of traffic and two pedestranised tree lined promenades its worth taking a stroll if only to admire the miniature gardens and beautiful patterned pavements.
At the end of Avenida da Liberdade, on the other side of a busy roundabout, is a steeper walk through Edward VII Park and the views from the top will reward you with a wonderful perspective of the city’s geography.  Set between two hills camouflaged by terracotta roofs with the river glistening in the distance is downtown Lisbon, known as the Baixa district. This area was totally rebuilt after the great earthquake of 1755 and its avenues and squares are set out in a regimental grid pattern.
In contrast, on either side, narrow winding streets weave their way up through the city’s maze-like residential districts.  However, it’s difficult to decide which hillside has the best vista. The battlements of St George’s Castle and the many viewing platforms of the medieval Alfama district not only take in most of the city but also the suspension bridge, renamed 25th of April Bridge following the revolution of 1974, and resembling San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.
The opposite hill is where you will find the Bairro Alto and Chiado districts and the views across to the castle are particularly impressive at night when the city and castle are lit up.  The picturesque gardens of Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara make a perfect place to start your evening before heading to the many bars and restaurants of Bairro Alto. However, it’s worth noting that the streets only come alive long after the sun sets. They are also narrow, sloping and cobbled so not suitable for high heels.
If you don’t want to walk up the hills you can take an old tram or a modern mini bus. You could also take the Gloria Elevator, which isn’t actually an elevator but a funicular that has been transporting residents and visitors between Baixa and Barrio Alto since 1885.   However, by far the most unique way to reach the Bairro Alto is by the Santa Justa Elevator, which is an actual elevator.
Designed by one of Gustave Eiffel’s apprentices in 1900 this free standing iron tower may not resemble the one in Paris but there are similarities and it is equally impressive and unique.  Originally powered by steam engine, one of the two lifts will transport you 45 metres above the city’s rooftops. Those undeterred by heights can then climb a spiral staircase and enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city and in particular of Rossio Square whose cobbles will remind you of rippling waves.
After you have taken in the panoramic views you can reach land by walking across a matching iron walkway that takes you past the remains of the gothic Carmo Church and Covent whose roof caved in during the great earthquake and has been left as a ruin to commemorate those who lost their lives.
Once you have explored the different districts in the city centre its time to jump on a tram and visit the suburb of Belem which is home to several historic buildings and tourist attractions. The two most famous are the Belem Tower and the Jeronimos Monastery which are both UNESCO World Heritage monuments. Â
its worth taking a stroll if only to admire the miniature gardens and beautiful patterned pavements
The gothic Belem Tower built in 1515 to guard the entrance to Lisbon’s harbour resembles a small castle and stands on its own sandy beach. After taking in the river views from its turrets a 10 minute walk along the river front will bring you to the modern Discoveries Monument.  Here you will find a subway that will transport you safely under the road and railway lines to the Jeronimos Monastery built in 1502 to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India and where you will find his tomb.
Just a short stroll from the monastery and probably just as famous is Pasteis de Belem, a pastry shop founded in 1837 and a great place to rest your legs. Don’t be put off by the crowds outside queuing for the shop’s takeaway counter as inside the café resembles “The Tardis” with one small tiled tea room leading to a larger room which leads to an even larger room. Scuttling waiters efficiently serve teas, coffees, liqueurs and of course their famous custard tarts which you sprinkle with cinnamon powder before devouring. On your way out you can watch trays of these delicacies being taken out of the ovens courtesy of a shop-size viewing window.
Although there are many things to see and do in Lisbon and numerous places to admire the city, its worth escaping for half a day to visit the towns of Sintra, Cascais and Estoril.   Sintra is a picturesque, medieval village nestled at the foot of mist shrouded hills and was where the Kings and Queens of Portugal had their summer homes.
Hidden from view at the top of a winding road that twists its way through ancient trees is the fairytale Pena Palace which is well worth a visit.  If you are short of time you can buy a ticket for the outside only and this will provide you with more than ample photos of the colourful palace guarded by a slightly menacing Merman, the courtyards and turrets as well as the surrounding views.  Even in the hot summer months the mists keep the palace magically chilled so it’s worth taking something warm to wear.
Heading out of the hills and towards the sea you will come to Cabo da Roca, the most western point of continental Europe and its well worth battling against the wind to check out the rugged coastline.  Further along the coast you will pass some beautiful beaches packed with surfers before arriving at the seaside towns of Cascais and Estoril which was where Portugal’s royal families had summer residences in the late 1800s.
This stretch of coastline was made even more famous during World War II. Due to Portugal’s neutrality many exiled royal families of Spain, Italy and Bulgaria made it their home. It was also the base for German and British spies who would mingle with the rich and famous in the famous Estoril Casino which became the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s book Casino Royale.
Not many cities can boast such beautiful beaches only 20 minutes away by train and although many have grand train stations, Lisbon has hidden hers inside an art deco palace.  Even when you step inside the entrance hall of Rossio Station there is no sign of any trains. The only clue is a small monitor showing the departures and arrivals at the bottom of two very long escalators and it’s not until you reach the top that you come to the ticket desk and platforms.
their famous custard tarts which you sprinkle with cinnamon powder before devouring
The city has a great collection of art deco buildings many of which can be found along the Avenida da Liberdade and the most dramatic is the Eden Theatre (now an aparthotel) located at the beginning of the avenue in Restauradores Square.   The square is well named as this is where you will find the Gloria Elevator which will take you to the restaurants of Barrio Alta and across the square, down the street next to the Hard Rock Café, you will come to Rua das Portas de Santo Antao.  This pedestranised street is filled with restaurants including the famous Gambrinus where they have been serving local dishes in a beautiful art deco setting since 1936.
Despite the fine examples of art deco, the vast majority of Lisbon’s buildings are covered with patterned ceramic tiles of all designs and colours.  Along the avenues of Baixa you can see tiled buildings in faded yellow, red, blue and green with lantern street lights hanging from brackets decorated with miniature sailing ships.  Sadly many of the buildings are run down and neglected with patches of missing tiles and weeds growing out of gutters. There is also a distinct lack of commerce and many high street shops appear to have deserted the city centre in favour of shopping malls on the outskirts.
There is much evidence that the city is restoring its beautiful squares, streets and buildings but there are many places where you will have to use your imagination.  You also need to ignore the persistent beggers, buskers and shoe shiners who may make you think twice about sitting outside the 18th century Cafe Nicola in Rossio Square.
Lisbon is like a grand dame that has been left to grow old and forgotten similar to the cities of Havana and Lima.  She doesn’t blow her trumpet like other European capitals but will quietly watch you explore and scrape away her layers of history.  Of course, she could just be waiting to reveal her new face lift to the world but why wait til then to visit.  If you are looking for a city break then Portugal’s capital won’t disappoint and you will leave saying Obrigado Lisboa for a wonderful weekend.
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