Capri - an island for lovers
Capri, Italy - May, 2006
No other island in the world oozes sex appeal as much as Capri. It is the QE2, Orient Express and Lamborghini of islands and no matter how you arrive be it by ferry, hydrofoil, luxury cruiser or helicopter you can't help but fall in love.
More commonly known as the “Piazzetta” this small square is the epi-centre of Capri and is surrounded by cafes
From the minute you step off the boat in Marina Grande excitement and anticipation ripples through your body. It’s impossible not to smile and your eyes sparkle behind your sun glasses as you take in the picturesque harbour. It’s a very special feeling to know you are actually staying on the island and to be here for a week with the person you love is magical.
Sitting in the back of a beautiful old convertible taxi, surrounded by intoxicating scents of lemon and jasmine, you are whisked up the steep hill to the doorstep of one of Italy’s most famous towns. The town centre is car-free and with your luggage left behind at the harbour to be delivered to your hotel by van and porter you are able to take your time and stroll through the cobbled streets hand in hand.
After leaving your taxi it’s a short walk to the spectacular views from the columned terrace above the funicular railway and next to it stands the clock tower guarding the entrance to Piazza Umberto I. More commonly known as the “Piazzetta” this small square is the epi-centre of Capri and is surrounded by cafes whose wicker chairs and tables leave just enough room for the swarms of tourists to squeeze through.
On either side of the steps leading up to the San Stefano church are beautiful terracotta planters overflowing with shocking pink and pillar-box red geraniums. More geraniums fill window boxes and sit next to striking red bougainvilleas that decorate the Piazzetta’s ancient walls. Mixed with awnings the colour of the sky and tourists in bright summer clothes it’s the most colourful place imaginable.
Once through the square, Via Vittorio Emanuele leads you downhill past boutiques and jewellery shops before arriving in front of the island’s most famous hotel, The Grand Hotel Quisiana. During the day, when the Piazzetta is at bursting point, the hotel’s terrace is “the” place to sit and watch the crowds as they spill down the hill before continuing along the exclusive designer shopping street, Via Camerelle. For a small town there is no shortage of shops but there are not many holiday resorts where hand-made Capri sandals and Limoncello perfume are the local souvenirs.
By far the best part about staying on the island is that you can escape the day-trippers by soaking up the sun next to your hotel’s pool. At dusk, once they’ve all left, you can head to the Piazzetta for an aperitif or take a promenade and watch the sun set. Via Tragara offers a picturesque walk, past boutique hotels and villas with breathtaking views, before ending at a large terrace outside Hotel Punta Tragara.
When you’ve taken enough pictures you can either return to Ana Capri by the chairlift or if you have an hour to spare you can walk back down the mule track.
This is a romantic place to lean on the railings, gaze out to the Faraglioni rocks and thank your lucky stars you are here. Another beautiful place to stroll is around the Augustus Gardens where not only can you admire the island’s flora and fauna but also enjoy views of Mount Solaro and the overlapping hairpin bends of Via Krupp.
There is no shortage of places to eat and many of the town’s restaurants can be found along the maze-like lanes leading off the Piazzetta. If you prefer panoramic views and stunning sunsets then head for Via Camerelle or one of the hotel restaurants along Via Tragara. Of course the island’s famous salad – Insalata Caprese – made with buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil features on most menus and you will love the local lemon desserts.
It’s worth getting up early to beat the crowds and catch a taxi or local bus up to Ana Capri, the island’s second town. The journey, particularly by bus, with its narrow road and sharp bends overlooking sheer drops can be nerve racking especially if you have to stand. Buses and taxis will drop you off at Piazza Vittoria and from here you can take the one person chair lift up Mount Solaro, the highest part of the island sitting 589 meters above sea level.
The journey only takes 12 minutes and your feet dangle over vines and terraced fields but the most amusing sight is when you pass over a garden filled with pebbles, shells and ceramic animals of all shapes, colours and sizes. It even has a bizarre mannequin wearing a string of pearls, sundress and handbag.
...crowds as they spill down the hill before continuing along the exclusive designer shopping street, Via Camerelle.
At the top, the views overlooking the Bay of Naples are amazing but the most striking are of the Faraglioni, the island’s three famous rocks rising out of the sea in the distance. When you’ve taken enough pictures you can either return to Ana Capri by the chairlift or if you have an hour to spare you can walk back down the mule track. At the bottom, if you feel like another downhill walk, you can head for the island’s most popular attraction, La Grotta Azzura.
The Grotto’s steps lead you down to the water’s edge but surprisingly there is nothing to see. The Blue Grotto is a 60 metre long, 25 metre wide cavity hidden inside the cliff face and the only way to enter the narrow entrance is in a small rowing boat. The best time to visit the Grotto is on a clear, calm day and if there is the slightest swell there won’t be a boat in sight.
Whether or not you manage to experience the intense blue water inside the cave and hear its special acoustics a good place to recover from all your walking is right next door at Add’o Riccio. It’s possible to spend the day here at their beach club or enjoy a long seafood lunch with a few cold beers practicing the correct pronunciation of the island. When you get home you will be able to spot those who have visited if they pronounce it “CAP-ri” and not Capri as in the make of the car.
Another memorable trip means leaving the island but the drive down the scenic Amalfi Coast is well worth it. The ferry or hydrofoil will take you over to Sorrento where you can meet your driver or hire a car, although the latter is not recommended as the coastal roads are a bit scary and parking in the towns almost impossible. Stopping to enjoy the views from the 13th century Villa Rufolo in Ravello; having an icecream on the steps of Amalfi’s beautiful Cathedral and lunch at the Le Sirenuse Hotel in Positano is a wonderful day out.
Not surprisingly everyone visiting this part of Italy has a day trip to Capri on their agenda and visitors swarm across from the mainland in their thousands. It’s just a shame it gets too crowded to really appreciate the beauty of the cobbled streets or be able sit in the Piazzetta with a glass of Prosecco and watch the world go by. However, don’t let this put you off visiting just be warned that you’ll find yourself promising that one day you’ll come back and spend at least a night on this very special island.