Cycling Leafpeepers
Leafpeepers, New England, USA - October, 2005
Visiting New England in the Fall when the trees turn gold and red and stand out against the evergreens and the clear blue skies is a "must do" experience and one that should not be done from behind a windscreen. Biking in Vermont and New Hampshire up and down undulating hills, alongside wide rivers and picturesque lakes allows you to get up close and personal with nature but watch out for the trees throwing acorns at you!
The hardest decision is when to go as the leaves can start changing colour as early as mid-September and finish half way through October.
The hardest decision is when to go as the leaves can start changing colour as early as mid-September and finish half way through October. That dilemma was solved thanks to Bike Vermont’s 5 day/4 night Norwich and Connecticut River Valley cycling trip which started on Monday 3 October and with 29 years of experience must make them the cycling leaf-peeper experts.
Our adventure started at the 18th century Alden Country Inn, in the small New Hampshire town of Lyme and whose creaking floorboards would be home for the next two nights. It turned out that 20 other cyclists had the same clever way of seeing the New England Fall and we met everyone and our two Tour Leaders, Dave and Wally, for dinner on the Monday evening. Despite various levels of expertise, we all had one thing in common a concern that Mother Nature might have decided to delay her arrival as the weather was more summer than autumnal with temperatures in the high 70’s.
The 45 mile cycle on our first day was a good warm up and pretty easy going thanks to the fairly flat roads. Although there were 20 of us we were encouraged to cycle in our groups and at our own pace and it felt good to be out on the roads alone. If we were disappointed at not seeing orange and yellow trees then our first pumpkin farm experience well and truly made up for it. To see orange and yellow pumpkins of all different shapes and sizes just lying in a field was quite a sight. It resembled the morning after a party when all that is left is clusters of balloons in various stages of deflation.
The field belonged to the Bickford Homestead and the friendly owners were delighted to share their love of pumpkins with complete strangers. We had no idea you could get so many different pumpkins in all sizes and colours with wonderful names such as Cinderella and Goose Neck. After taking many photographs of the incredible display covering their entire front yard we reluctantly dragged ourselves back onto our bikes and waved goodbye.
The second highlight of the day was a picnic lunch on the banks of Morey Lake. Surprisingly the cycle round the lake was an optional extra and added on an extra 6.9 miles but everyone who did it agreed it should be compulsory. The large lake was a mirror and the only movement came from two fishermen in a rowing boat out in the middle. After passing beautiful lake-front houses we found a romantic spot right by the water’s edge to have our previously purchased deli-sandwiches.
The journey back to Lyme took us along River road following the Connecticut River and passing white clapperboard houses and farms all displaying pumpkins and dressed up smiling scarecrows. We also cycled through our first covered bridge passing from the State of New Hampshire into Vermont.
For most of the day the only sounds we heard were of our tyres crunching over twigs and apart from the occasional truck carrying lumber the only real hazard on the roads was when the trees tried to hit you with their acorns. Now and then a breeze would cause the leaves to fly off their branches and trying to catch one as you cycled underneath was irresistible but not easy as they took great delight in changing direction at the last moment.
The large lake was a mirror and the only movement came from two fishermen in a rowing boat out in the middle
At first we weren’t sure if it was our imagination but by Day 2 the trees looked like they had changed colour a bit more. The mornings in the valley were hazy and at times drizzly but by eleven o’clock the sun had burnt off the mist giving way to amazing clear blue skies. It was the perfect backdrop for the Federal style white wooden churches and houses that we passed by. Today we were heading to our second home of the week – Moose Mountain Lodge – and our cycle would take us through the Ivy League town of Hanover home to the famous Dartmouth College.
Our Tour Leaders had told us such wonderful stories about Moose Mountain Lodge and the owners Kay and Peter that it seemed impossible to believe it could be that good. There was definitely more “ups” today although this shouldn’t have been a surprise given the name of the lodge and the fact it was built in the 1930’s as a ski lodge. At the final hill we left our bikes at the pre-designated yellow-flag and walked the last stretch as it was too steep to cycle. Although we later discovered that a couple of people did miraculously make it all the way.
Despite only being a 22 mile cycle it felt much more due to the hills but the upside was that it gave us more time to enjoy the scenery surrounding the lodge. As soon as we walked through the front door we were welcomed by Peter and Kay and it felt instantly like staying at a favourite Auntie’s with the most incredible smells of home baking coming from the kitchen. Kay’s Blueberry Muffins and Coffee Cake were hot out of the oven at breakfast time and when you tore them apart a small puff of steam broke into the air and instantly made your mouth water.
The main feature of the lodge was its large porch overlooking the tree filled valley and an amazing backdrop of mountains. There were many trails around the lodge some eventually leading to the Appalachian Trail, although the furthest we got were those surrounding the nearby pond. The pond was home to a friendly otter who we were delighted to meet and also where the Moose come to drink in the mornings. We were led there by Greta the family dog who after splashing in and out of the muddy pond for half an hour took us for a walk deep into the forest.
The trail Greta led us down was covered in a carpet of thick green moss and bright red leaves. It was like something out of a fairytale and you expected to find a gingerbread house round the next bend. Just as we started to think we were lost, Greta burst out of the forest onto the hill overlooking the lodge where the views of the valley below were even more breathtaking.
Day 3 again started hazy as we cycled along the banks of Mascoma Lake. The scenery was eerie as the water and the sky seemed to blend into one icy grey mirage but by the time we had visited the Shaker Village Museum the sun had blasted its way through and once again the leaves had become more colourful. Today was postcard perfect New England in the Fall weather and we couldn’t help stopping our bikes every ten minutes to take another photograph.
It was like something out of a fairytale and you expected to find a gingerbread house round the next bend.
The optional extra today was a cycle up George Hill and added a thigh aching extra 18.5 miles onto our cycle. The highlight had to be the picnic lunch at McDaniel’s Marsh right at the top of the hill. Not that we saw any sign of a marsh but instead before us was a mountain lake surrounded by the most brightly coloured trees we had yet encountered and the reflection in the still water was mesmerising. A couple of canoeists took our photo and we took theirs as their paddles broke through the water and they silently left us behind to enjoy our sandwiches. Apart from the views the only good thing about hills are the “downs” and wow there were some good ones! As we flew past farms and fields we felt as free as the wind.
The third lake of the day was Crystal Lake and it was obvious why it got that name. The lake was so quiet and peaceful as were the beautiful homes that we cycled past with their boat jetty’s jutting out into the water next to small private beaches. At this time of year the lake and houses looked abandoned but it must be buzzing with activity in the summer.
Today’s 37 miles really took its toll and back at the lodge we collapsed onto the sun loungers and munched away on Kay’s home made chocolate chip cookies. Tonight would be our last dinner together and we were rewarded by the most stunning sun set on the porch before heading inside for another feast round the solid wood table.
The last day’s cycle was only 22 miles and we were due back at the Alden Inn at Lyme by midday. After the previous day’s cycle our legs took a while to get going and it helped to be constantly distracted by the trees which by now were definitely autumnal. There was also a noticeable change in the weather with a forecast for rain that afternoon. The cooler air was refreshing as we cycled along the side of the Connecticut River for the last time passing 12ft high corn on the cob fields before arriving back at the Inn.
There was just enough time to hand back the bikes, shower and say our goodbyes and a last “bye y’all” to the 10 strong Pensacola contingent. On the drive back to Boston, as the rain hit the windscreen, we realised just how lucky we had been to get away from the hustle and bustle of city living for a few days; to have nothing to think about except keeping our wheels turning, breathing in clean fresh air and soaking up the glorious scenery. To witness with our own eyes summer turning into Fall will be a memory to treasure forever.